Simone Moro was born in 1967. He is an Alpine guide, athlete, federal instructor and was, from 1992-1996, the trainer of Italy national sport climbing team (F.A.S.I.). He has been climbing since the age of thirteen, and today he does it full time as an alpine expedition climber of the world’s highest mountains (Himalayas, Karakorum, Thien Shan, Pamir, Andes, Patagonia, and Antartica).
The first big success for Simone Moro was the 8516m climb up Lhoste in 1994 in only 13 hours (17 hours in total) leaving from 6330m. The way was finished some meters below the summit due to bad weather and snow drifts. Another important achievement was the combined 8b-8000m in one calendar year (1994). What is more, the climbing difficulty (8b) and the way up from one mountain to the other’s 8000m summit were without oxygen.
To be able to have the technical and physical qualities needed to move through such varying terrains and to have done it in the same season is an achievement few (maybe no one) up to now have accomplished.
December 1997 was Simone’s first attempt at the southern wall of Annapurna in Winter. During that circumstance, his companion Anatoli Boukreev had a fatal accident, swept away by an avalanche. The 45 minute-video by Simone Moro is the story of his way of doing alpinism and his approach towards life after that tragic accident.
The images will show some of the fourteen peaks exceeding 8000m of height, described by the world’s physiologists as the “death zone”, beyond which survival is humanly possible only for a few interminable, freezing hours…
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Simone has received the prestigious David Sowles from the American Alpine Club. He received the above recognition and awards for an extreme rescue he made alone, climbing without oxygen and reaching the 8000m on the 8516m wall of Lhoste. Interrupting his climb and risking his own life, Simone looked for, found and carried English alpinist Tom Moores to safety.
In the last two years Simone realised two historical climbs: the new route on the north-west face of Baruntse North 7056 m (named also Khali Himal) and the first ever winter climb of Shisha Pangma 8027m along the south face.
“Even if your motivation is complex and individual, my idea of alpinism is like many others. I practice alpinism like others who have decided to understand the actual activity not as the aim of life but as the way to discover and love life. Climbing the world’s mountains is a way to discover culture, populations and the problems facing them all over the world. Climbing is also a way to discover one’s personal limits, techniques and psychology. It is a way to become aware of the limits that one can overcome with determination, motivation and training. At bottom, these are the same qualities that motivate people to change their environment at work or adjust and better their emotional and/or social life. So if individuals are moved by the same stimuli, although in different directions, isn’t it time to stop calling alpine climbers crazy!?”
For further information: www.simonemoro.com
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